A Quick Guide to Common Thread Size Standard

Sewing thread size is a fundamental aspect of sewing that can make or break your project. Whether you’re a DIY enthusiast, an experienced sewing aficionado, or a fashion designer, understanding thread sizes and their corresponding systems can elevate the quality of your work. In this guide, we’ll unravel the complex world of thread sizing, explain the various yarn number systems, and provide a handy conversion table for quick reference.

What is Thread Sizing?

Thread sizing refers to the measurement of the thickness or diameter of a sewing thread. Thread weight, which defines the thickness and mass of different types of sewing threads, is a crucial factor that impacts the strength, appearance, and performance of the thread when used in sewing or textile production. Different projects require different thread sizes to ensure the best results, making it essential to understand how thread sizing works.

Why is Thread Sizing Important?

Choosing the correct thread size ensures your stitches are strong and durable. It also affects the appearance of the finished product, as a mismatched thread size can lead to uneven stitches or even damage the fabric. For fashion designers, achieving a professional finish with the right thread size is non-negotiable.

Thread Diameter vs. Thread Sizes

While thread diameter refers to the physical thickness of the thread, thread size is a numerical value that represents this thickness. Various systems and units are used to measure thread size, making it crucial to understand these measurements for accurate selection.

Common Thread Sizing Systems Explained

Several systems are used globally to measure thread sizes. Each system has its unique way of representing the thickness of threads, often leading to confusion. Here, we'll explain the most common yarn number systems used in the industry.

Fixed Weight Systems

In this system, unit weight is taken as fixed and its length is measured.

English Count (Ne) = Number of hanks of 840 yards/lb

The Cotton Count (Ne) system is primarily used for cotton threads. It measures the number of 840-yard lengths of thread in one pound. Higher Ne numbers indicate thinner threads. This system is often used in the United States and some parts of Europe.

Example:

• Ne 1 – In one pound of yarn weight, there are 840 yards of yarn length

• Ne 5 – In one pound of yarn weight, there are 4200 (840×5) yards of yarn length

Metric Count (Nm) = Number of hanks of 1000 metres/kg

The Number Metric (Nm) system measures the length of thread in kilometers per kilogram. For instance, an Nm 50 thread, such as certain polyester threads, means that 50 kilometers of this thread would weigh 1 kilogram. Higher Nm numbers indicate thinner threads, making this system opposite to the Tex and Denier systems.

Fixed Length Systems

In this system, unit length is taken as fixed and its weight is measured.

Tex = Weight in grams of 1,000 metres

The Tex system measures the weight of 1,000 meters of thread in grams. For example, a thread with a Tex number of 30 means that 1,000 meters of this thread weighs 30 grams. Higher Tex numbers indicate thicker threads, while lower Tex numbers indicate a thinner thread. The simplicity of the Tex system makes it widely used in the textile industry.

Example:

• Tex 40 – A length of 1,000 metres gives 40 Grams of weight

• Tex 100 – A length of 1,000 metres gives 100 Grams of weight

Denier = Weight in grams of 9,000 metres

Similar to the Tex system, the Denier system measures the weight of 9,000 meters of thread in grams. A higher Denier number indicates a thicker thread. This system is often used for synthetic fibers, such as nylon and polyester, with nylon thread being a common example.

Decitex (dtex)= Weight in grams of 10,000 metres

The Decitex (dtex) system is another variation of the Tex system. It measures the weight of 10,000 meters of thread in grams, often used for materials like polyester thread. Higher dtex values indicate thicker threads. This system is commonly used for sewing threads that require precise measurements.

Typically, the Metric count system is employed for describing synthetic, spun, and corespun threads, whereas the English count system is reserved for cotton threads. For filament threads, Decitex or Denier is commonly used as the unit of measurement.

Thread Weight

The weight of a thread is actually a length measurement. Dividing the length of the thread by a set weight derives the exact measurement of a thread weight. A thread is labeled 40 wt. when 40 kilometers of that thread weighs 1 kilogram.

Understanding Thread Size Conversion Chart

With different systems in play, converting yarn counts from one system to another can be challenging. To simplify this process, we’ve provided a conversion table that illustrates the relationships between Tex, dtex, Denier, Nm, and Ne. When you switch thread sizes, it's crucial to adjust the tension on your sewing machine accordingly to ensure smooth operation.

How to Use the Thread Size Conversion Chart

To use the conversion table, locate the thread size in one system, then read across the row to find the equivalent size in another system. This table simplifies the process of selecting the right thread size for your project, ensuring consistency and accuracy. It is especially useful for choosing the appropriate thread for different types of sewing machines, whether for home sewing machines or industrial sewing machines.

Practical Examples of Thread Sizes Conversions

Consider a thread with a Tex number of 20. Using the table, we can see that this translates to a dtex value of 200, a Denier of 180, an Nm of 50, and an Ne of 29.53. Such conversions are essential for sourcing the correct thread in international markets where different systems are prevalent. Additionally, selecting the right thread size is crucial for ensuring optimal performance with your sewing machine, as mismatched thread can lead to issues like jams or thread breakage.

Benefits of Using the Correct Thread Sizes

Accurate yarn count conversions ensure that you select the right thread size, leading to better stitch quality, enhanced durability, and a professional finish. For fashion designers, this precision can significantly impact the final look of their creations by helping them choose the appropriate thread weights for various sewing projects.

Tips for Choosing the Right Sewing Thread Size

Selecting the appropriate thread size involves more than just understanding the various systems. Here are some practical tips to help you choose the right thread for your project, especially when using home sewing machines:

Consider the Fabric Type for Home Sewing Machines

Thicker fabrics like denim require thicker threads, while delicate fabrics like silk need finer threads. Matching the thread size to the fabric type ensures that your stitches are both strong and aesthetically pleasing. For instance, larger denier sizes correspond to heavier threads, which can affect the appearance of seams and are preferred in specific sewing applications to ensure durability and prominence in the final product.

Evaluate the Stitch Type

Different stitch types may require different thread sizes. For instance, decorative stitches often use thicker threads to make the design stand out, whereas seams and hems may use standard-sized threads for durability. Lightweight fabrics, on the other hand, require a thinner thread to avoid issues like seam puckering and to ensure proper thread tension adjustments.

Test Thicker Thread on a Scrap Fabric

Always test your chosen thread on a scrap piece of the same fabric. This allows you to see how the thread behaves with the fabric and make any necessary adjustments before starting your project. For instance, some sewists prefer nylon thread to match cotton upholstery, as it can help avoid visibility issues that heavier threads might cause in stitching.

Conclusion

Understanding sewing thread sizes is an essential skill for anyone involved in sewing, whether you’re a hobbyist, fashion designer, or professional tailor. By mastering the various yarn number systems and knowing how to convert between them, you can ensure that your projects turn out perfectly every time.

We trust this guide has offered valuable insights and actionable advice to assist in selecting the ideal thread for your upcoming project. If you’re looking to deepen your knowledge or need personalized advice, consider consulting with an expert or joining a sewing community. Your perfect stitch awaits!

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