Steps to Thread A Serger Sewing Machine

22 November 2024

Using a thread serger can be daunting for beginners, but once you learn the sequence and technique, it becomes straightforward. This guide will take you through the process step by step.

Proper threading ensures smooth operation, prevents thread breakage, and results in sharper, more professional stitches for your garments or projects. Follow the threading order and troubleshooting tips below for optimal results.

Your Serger

Before you thread serger, you need to understand the parts of the serger machine and what they do. A serger machine, or overlock sewing machine, is a specialized sewing device that uses multiple threads to neatly finish raw fabric edges or sew knitted materials. The machine has several key components: upper looper, lower looper, needles and presser foot.

The upper looper is the top loop of thread on the serger, which sits on top of the fabric when looking at it under the needle. The lower looper is the bottom loop of thread, which sits underneath the fabric. The needles are for overlocking or serging woven fabric. The presser foot is a metal plate that holds the fabric in place as you sew.

Understanding the parts of your serger sewing machines and what they do will help you thread the machine correctly and use it well. Knowing how they all work together will make the threading process easier and your serger will run better.

What You’ll Need

Before you begin, make sure you have:

Sewing thread cones or spools
Spool caps (for smaller spools)
Thread cone inserts (for extra thread stability)
Tweezers (to guide thread through tight spaces)

Pre-Threading Checklist

Before you thread your serger, make sure:

You have the right thread cone inserts for your serger
The right thread for your project
The thread tree is fully extended
Thread guides are above the tension disks
A pair of tweezers for the upper looper
A small ‘threading lever’ for the lower looper (if applicable)

Make sure your serger is turned off and the presser foot is up before you start threading. This will prevent any accidental starts and make the threading process safer and easier. Having everything ready and in place will save you time and frustration during the threading process.

Step 1: Spool Caps and Thread Cone Inserts

Sergers feed thread through the machine much faster than regular sewing machines. To prevent tangles and thread slippage while sewing, you need to use spool caps and thread cone inserts. These keep your thread stable so you get proper tension and feeding.

Step 2: Tension Disks

Before you thread the machine parts, pull your threads through their tension disks. These disks keep your thread smooth and the right amount of tension for clean stitches. Make sure the thread is seated between the disks—improperly seated thread can cause tension problems.

Step 3: Threading Sequence

The order of threading is important for a serger. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions and this sequence to avoid thread breakage or misalignment. Thread the loopers first and then the needle to avoid threading issues.

Upper Looper

Start with the upper looper thread.
Pull thread through guides along the upper looper path.
Turn your handwheel towards you until the upper looper is accessible.
Use tweezers to thread through the small hole in the upper looper.

Lower Looper

Thread the lower looper.
Thread through lower looper thread guides.
Thread should flow smoothly along the path.

Right Needle

Thread the right needle.
Thread through thread guides to the right needle.
Use tweezers if needed to thread through the needle eye.

Left Needle

Thread the left needle.
Follow the left-side thread guides and thread through the needle eye.
Left needle should be higher than right needle for stitching.

Step 4: Check Everything is Threaded

Once you’ve threaded everything, check your threads are not tangled and flowing smoothly through their paths. Turn the handwheel to make sure threads are feeding evenly.

Common Issues

Even with proper threading, things can go wrong. Here’s how to fix the most common problems:

Looper Threads Jamming or Breaking

Upper and lower looper threads not crossed.
Check the threading sequence. Loopers should always be threaded first then the needle.
Check needle installation. Remove both needles and reinsert them fully—the left needle should be higher than the right needle.

Poor or Inconsistent Stitch

Check thread placement in tension disks to make sure they’re seated properly.
Make sure spool caps and thread cone inserts are installed.
Replace needle and/or cutting blade if stitch issues or fabric not cutting clean during sewing.

Serger Tips

Here are some serger tips:

Always use spool caps and thread cone inserts to prevent thread tangling and thread organization.
Use a small piece of fabric under the presser foot to keep thread from being pulled back into the machine.
Upper and lower looper threads not crossed, and lower looper thread above upper looper thread.
Turn machine towards you when threading lower looper.
Use threading lever to thread lower looper (if applicable).
Make sure thread is seated in tension disks and through thread guides.
Use foot pedal to control speed.
Don’t push too hard on fabric and keep fabric straight.
Use the feet on the serger to push fabric through.

By following these tips you should have your serger threaded and using it correctly to get professional looking results. Proper threading and handling will give you smoother operation and more precise stitches and your sewing projects will look finished.

General Hints

I use a bit of thread wax or candle wax to stiffen the ends of my thread, making it easier to thread through needles and loopers.

You can rethread your loopers by tying on new thread. Simply snip the upper and lower looper threads between the thread tree and tension disks, replace the spools, tie the new thread to the old one with a small overhand knot, and pull it through the loopers.

If you're running low on thread cones, you can use thread spools for your needles. You can also wind your own thread spools from your serger cones.

Conclusion

Threading a serger can be intimidating but with practice you’ll be a pro in no time. Always follow the recommended threading order (upper looper, lower looper, right needle, left needle) and keep spool caps handy for the smoothest experience.

Having trouble or want to learn more? Check your machine’s manual or ask your fellow sewists in the community. A properly threaded serger is the key to endless possibilities!

More tips and tutorials here, and show us what you’ve serged!