How to Sew with Elastic Thread on a Sewing Machine

22 November 2024

Sewing with elastic thread is a skill that’s useful for manufacturers, wholesalers and buyers of thread alike. Elastic thread is used in techniques like shirring and creates flexible and fashionable designs that can add to any garment. This post will cover everything you need to know to work with elastic thread, from the supplies you’ll need to the step by step process for perfect shirring, troubleshooting and caring for garments made with this method.

What is Sewing with Elastic Thread?

Sewing with elastic thread involves using a stretchy, elasticized thread in the bobbin of your sewing machine and regular thread in the top spool. This creates stretchy rows of gathers, known as elastic thread shirring, a technique that simplifies garment construction by eliminating the need for zippers and buttons. Shirring adds stretch and texture, perfect for dresses, blouses and home decor.

Supplies

To sew with elastic thread you will need:

Elastic Thread (wound around the bobbin)
All-Purpose Sewing Thread (for the top spool)
Lightweight Fabric (like cotton or linen—a test swatch is helpful)
Tailor’s Chalk or Fabric Marker (for marking rows)
Iron (for pressing the fabric after sewing)
Sewing Machine (standard models are fine with minor adjustments)
Drop-in Bobbin (important for avoiding tension problems during shirring)

Preparing Your Machine

Before you start sewing with elastic thread you need to prepare your machine. This will ensure smooth operation and professional results. Here’s how to get your machine ready for shirring:

Thread Your Machine with Regular Thread: Thread your machine with a good quality regular thread that matches your fabric. This thread will be in the top spool and the elastic thread will be in the bobbin. Using a matching thread colour will help the stitches blend in with the fabric.
Set the Stitch Length: Set the stitch length to a longer length, around 3.5 mm. Longer stitches will gather more fabric and give a more even shirring effect.
Choose the Right Presser Foot: Choose a presser foot that will help the fabric feed smoothly. A Teflon foot or a walking foot will be particularly helpful as they prevent the fabric from bunching up or dragging and give a smooth sewing experience.
Check the Bobbin Case: Make sure your bobbin case is clean and free of debris. A clean bobbin case will allow the elastic thread to feed smoothly and evenly and prevent any interruptions or wrinkles in your stitching.

By following these steps you will have set your machine up for sewing with elastic thread.

How to Sew with Elastic Thread, Step by Step

Follow these instructions to get professional shirring results:

Step 1: Wind the elastic thread onto the bobbin by hand, do not stretch the elastic while winding.

Step 2: Put the bobbin in the machine, make sure the elastic bobbin is threaded correctly through the bobbin groove to avoid shirring problems.

Step 3: Mark the fabric where you want the shirring to start. Mark the first line as the guide line for the rest of the shirring rows.

Step 4: Set your machine to straight stitch. Set the stitch length to a longer length, around 3.0 to 4.0.

Step 5: Sew along the marked line, keep the fabric flat while sewing to get the desired shirring effect.

Step 6: Use shirring elastic for gathered effects in garments like dresses and tops. Test the elastic on a scrap piece of fabric to get the tension and stitch length right.

Step 7: Tie off the thread ends after each shirring row to prevent loose threads and a messy finish.

Step 1 – Wind a Bobbin with Elastic Thread

Wind elastic thread onto the bobbin by hand. Use light tension while winding so you don’t stretch the thread too tight. This will keep the elastic flexible while sewing.

Step 2 – Thread the Machine

Put the elastic thread wound bobbin in the machine, make sure the elastic is threaded correctly through the bobbin groove to avoid shirring problems. Use regular thread in the top spool, then thread the needle as you would normally.

Step 3 – Mark the Rows

Use tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker to draw evenly spaced lines on your fabric as guides. Mark the first line as the guide line for the rest of the shirring rows. This will keep your rows straight and aligned.

Step 4 – Machine Settings

Set the stitch length to 3-4mm—longer stitches give better gathering. Set the machine to straight stitch. Reduce the tension if needed for smoother sewing.

Step 5 – Sew the Elastic Thread

Place the fabric under the presser foot and sew along the first marked line. Guide the fabric as you sew, don’t pull too hard that will distort the alignment.

Step 6 – Sew More Rows

Repeat Step 5 for each marked line, space them out evenly. The fabric will start to gather as the elastic thread contracts. Shirring elastic is great for gathered effects in garments like dresses and tops.

Step 7 – Press the Shirring Fabric

After sewing, press the stitched rows with an iron to set the elastic gathers. Don’t stretch the fabric while pressing and use low heat. Also, tie off the thread ends after each shirring row to prevent loose threads.

Preparing Your Fabric

Setting up your fabric is crucial for even and straight shirring lines. Here’s how to prepare your fabric before you start sewing:

Cut and Prepare Your Fabric: Cut your fabric to the size you want, leaving 1/2 inch seam allowance around the edges. This extra fabric will give you room to work and clean finish.
Press the Fabric: Iron the fabric to remove wrinkles and creases. A smooth fabric is easier to work with and will give you straight and even shirring lines.
Mark the Shirring Lines: Use a ruler or a fabric marker to mark the shirring lines on the fabric. Space them evenly, about 1/4 inch apart. Consistency is key to a uniform shirring effect.
Pin the Fabric: Pin the fabric to a stable surface, keeping it tight and even. This will prevent the fabric from moving as you sew and your shirring lines will be straight and aligned.

By setting up your fabric correctly you’ll make the sewing process easier and get better results with shirring.

Problems when Sewing with Elastic Thread

Sewing with elastic thread is not without issues. Here are common problems and their solutions:

Uneven Gathering: Make sure the bobbin is wound with consistent tension. Adjust thread tension if needed.
Skipped Stitches: Check that the fabric is fed evenly under the presser foot and the machine needle is sharp.
Not Enough Stretch: Increase stitch length and reduce thread tension to allow more stretch.

Tips and Variations

To get the best results when sewing with elastic thread, try these tips and variations:

Use Good Quality Elastic Thread: Invest in good quality elastic thread for shirring. Gutermann and Dritz are good brands that offer consistent stretch and durability.
Try Different Stitch Lengths: Try different stitch lengths to see what works for your project. Longer stitch length will give you more relaxed shirring and shorter stitch length will give you tighter gathers.
Walking Foot or Teflon Foot: A walking foot or Teflon foot will help the fabric glide smoothly under the needle and not bunch up or drag. Especially useful for lightweight or slippery fabrics.
Steam the Stitches: After sewing, steam the stitches with a hot iron. This will contract the elastic thread more and give more gathered effect and texture to the fabric.
Spray Bottle: Lightly spray the fabric with water using a spray bottle. This will give more texture and interest especially when combined with steam.
Try Different Fabrics: Try different fabrics like quilting cotton, lightweight fabrics and stretchy fabrics. Each fabric will give you different effect and you can get various textures and styles.
Bobbin Screw: If you’re having trouble with the tension of the elastic thread, try adjusting the bobbin screw. This will prevent the elastic thread from breaking or snapping and give you smooth and consistent stitching.

By trying these tips and variations you can get better results when sewing with elastic thread in your projects.

Clothes Made with Shirring with Elastic Thread

Shirring with elastic thread is used in:

Summer dresses with waistline cinch.
Blouses with elastic neckline or sleeve cuffs.
Baby clothes that need stretch.

Washing and Care of Elastic Thread Clothes

When washing clothes with elastic thread, use gentle cycle with cold water to maintain the strength and stretch of the elastic. Do not use high heat drying method as it will compromise the stretch.

Shirring vs Smocking

Both shirring and smocking create gathered fabric but they are applied differently. Shirring uses elastic thread and is stretchable, quick and functional. Smocking uses embroidery and hand stitching and is non-stretchable.

Alternatives to Sewing with Elastic Thread

Elastic thread is popular but there are alternatives like elastic casings or pre-stitched elastic bands. But these don’t give the same smooth gathered effect as shirring.

Conclusion on Sewing with Elastic Thread

Sewing with elastic thread is a very versatile and practical technique for fashion manufacturers, thread wholesalers and thread buyers to explore design possibilities. It may take some practice but it’s worth it.

Get in touch or get elastic thread for your next project? MH has got you covered with our wide range of threads and sewing supplies.

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