Polyester Thread Size for Sewing and Embroidery
Polyester threads are a must have in the sewing and embroidery world, we love them for their versatility and durability whether you’re a hobbyist or a professional seamstress. Understanding polyester thread sizes including DTEX and TEX is key to choosing the right thread for your project. Whether you’re making clothes, repairing old favourites or creating embroidery, understanding the different polyester thread types and sizes is vital for the best results. This guide will break down the polyester threads from spun and textured to heavy duty and embroidery.
Thread Sizing
Thread sizing is a fundamental part of sewing that affects the quality and durability of your stitches. There are several ways to measure thread size, Tex, Denier Count and Commercial Sizes. Each method gives a different perspective on the thread’s thickness and strength so it’s important to understand these measurements for accurate comparisons.
The Tex system measures the weight of 1,000 meters of thread in grams, a simple way to measure thread size. Denier Count measures the weight of 9,000 meters of thread, used for finer threads. Commercial Sizes are used in the textile industry and can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.
Thread size is important because it affects the performance and durability of the thread. A thicker thread, higher Tex or Denier number is stronger and better for heavy duty use. A thinner thread is for delicate fabrics and detailed work. By choosing the right thread size you can have strong and beautiful stitches.
Spun Polyester Sewing Thread Size Chart
Spun polyester threads are a favorite among sewists. Made from short polyester fibers spun together like cotton, they combine a soft, natural feel with great strength. Perfect for garment construction, home decor, and quilting projects.
Spun polyester threads come in various sizes, which affect thickness, tension, and stitch appearance. A 50/3 size works well for lightweight to medium fabrics, offering smooth stitches without bulk. For heavier fabrics, try a stronger 40/2 size. Note that heavier threads may not suit all home sewing machines and might require cone holders.
These threads are versatile, strong, and elastic, making them ideal for everyday sewing. Plus, their resistance to shrinkage and fading ensures your projects stay vibrant over time.
Ne Count | Tex | Averange strength | Elongation at break | Recommended Needle Size | |
(S) | (T) | (cN) | (%) | (Singer) | (Metric) |
12s/3 | 150 | 5010 | 8-13 | 19-21 | 120-140 |
12s/4 | 200 | 7080 | 8-13 | 21-24 | 160-180 |
20s/2 | 60 | 2124 | 10-16 | 15-18 | 90-110 |
20s/3 | 90 | 3540 | 11-16 | 17-20 | 100-120 |
20s/6 | 180 | 5832 | 8-13 | 21-24 | 160-180 |
20s/9 | 270 | 9045 | 7-12 | N/A | N/A |
30s/2 | 40 | 1379 | 10-15 | 11-14 | 75-90 |
30s/3 | 60 | 2245 | 11-16 | 15-18 | 90-110 |
40s/2 | 30 | 1050 | 10-15 | 10-12 | 70-80 |
40s/3 | 45 | 1642 | 10-15 | 11-14 | 75-90 |
50s/2 | 24 | 850 | 9-14 | 9-11 | 65-75 |
50s/3 | 36 | 1309 | 10-15 | 11-14 | 75-90 |
60s/2 | 20 | 666 | 9-14 | 8-10 | 60-70 |
60s/3 | 30 | 1030 | 10-15 | 11-14 | 75-90 |
Textured Polyester Thread Size Chart
Textured polyester threads have unique characteristics compared to spun threads. Their soft, fluffy texture comes from twisting and texturizing the fibers, giving them a full-bodied look ideal for knits, swimwear, and lingerie.
These threads are perfect for applications needing stretch, softness, and a seamless, skin-friendly finish. Their elasticity and quick recovery make them ideal for hems and seams in elastic materials, making them popular for sporty or stretchy fabrics.
Heavier threads with larger denier sizes create more visible stitching, great for uses like bookbinding where the stitching is part of the design.
When selecting thread size, textured polyester threads offer various options. A 150/1 works well for lightweight stretch fabrics, maintaining flexibility without breaking, while a 100/1 provides more durability for sturdier stretch materials, ensuring seams stay strong under stress.
Denier (D) |
Tex (T) |
Ticket Size (TKT) |
Average Strength (cN) |
Elongation Mix-Max (%) |
150D/1 | 18 | 160 | 774 | 20-32 |
200D/1 | 21 | 110 | 934 | 20-32 |
300D/1 | 35 | 80 | 1410 | 20-32 |
Cotton Covered Polyester Thread Size Chart
The best of both worlds, cotton covered polyester threads have the strength of polyester and the soft finish of cotton. These are essentially polyester cores wrapped in cotton, good for durability and minimal stretch that many sewing projects require, with a matte finish that’s easy on the eyes.
Bonded thread with its unique construction of strength and aesthetics is good for applications that requires robust seams and beautiful stitches. Good for handbags, purses and other leather goods.
Cotton covered polyester threads are good for quilting, crafts and denim projects because of their abrasion resistance and tensile strength. They can withstand the pressure of sewing machines without snapping and will give consistent stitches throughout.
When choosing a thread size you may want to consider a 40/3 for quilting as it balances thickness and manageability. For detailed topstitching or fine finishing work a 60/2 is often used, nice and fine without overpowering the fabric.
Tex | Tickets Size | Yarn Count | Averange Strength | Elongation Min-Max | Recommended Needle Size | Shrinkage in Boiling Water | ||
(T) | (TKT) | (S) | (cN) | (g) | (%) | Singer | Metric | (%) |
18 | 180 | 69/2 | 780 | 796 | 17-22 | 9-11 | 65-75 | <1.0 |
21 | 150 | 50/2 | 980 | 1000 | 17-22 | 9-11 | 65-75 | <1.0 |
24 | 120 | 45/2 | 1190 | 1214 | 17-22 | 10-14 | 70-90 | <1.0 |
30 | 100 | 35/2 | 1490 | 1520 | 17-22 | 11-14 | 75-90 | <1.0 |
40 | 80 | 29/2 | 1780 | 1816 | 18-24 | 11-14 | 75-90 | <1.0 |
40 | 80 | 45/3 | 1960 | 2000 | 18-24 | 11-14 | 75-90 | <1.0 |
60 | 50 | 18/2 | 3040 | 3102 | 18-25 | 16-19 | 100-120 | <1.0 |
60 | 50 | 29/3 | 3530 | 3602 | 18-25 | 16-19 | 100-120 | <1.0 |
80 | 40 | 15/2 | 3940 | 4020 | 18-25 | 16-19 | 100-120 | <1.0 |
105 | 30 | 12/2 | 4790 | 4888 | 18-25 | 18-21 | 110-130 | <1.0 |
120 | 25 | 15/3 | 6080 | 6204 | 18-25 | 19-21 | 120-140 | <1.0 |
Heavy-Duty /High-Tenacity Polyester Thread Size Chart
Heavy duty polyester threads also known as high tenacity threads are designed for strength and durability. These threads have a robust construction, good for demanding applications like upholstery, leatherwork and outdoor gear.
The hallmark of heavy duty threads is their ability to withstand tension and wear, so they’re essential for projects that involve heavy fabrics or require structural integrity. They’re often used for sewing leather, heavy canvas and industrial textiles.
Thread size is important for heavy duty applications. A 30/3 is recommended for upholstery seams where strength is key. For leather crafting or shoe repair a 20/3 will give the necessary weight to keep materials together. Choosing the right needle and thread size is critical to avoid jamming or breaking of thread when using a sewing machine.
Dtex | Denier | PLY | T.P.M. Single S Final Z |
Yarn Strength | Tenacity | Elongation | ||
(T) | (D) | --- | S/Z | (g/D) | (G) | (CV%) | (%) | (CV%) |
110 | 100D | 3 | 550/450 | 7±0.2 | 2100 | 4 | 15 | 5 |
150 | 135D | 3 | 520/420 | 7±0.2 | 2835 | 4 | 15 | 5 |
167 | 150D | 2 | 550/480 | 7±0.2 | 2100 | 4 | 16 | 5 |
167 | 150D | 3 | 520/420 | 7±0.2 | 3150 | 4 | 16 | 5 |
235 | 210D | 2 | 550/440 | 7±0.2 | 2940 | 4 | 16 | 5 |
235 | 210D | 3 | 580/393 | 7±0.2 | 4410 | 4 | 17 | 5 |
278 | 250D | 3 | 560/350 | 7±0.2 | 5250 | 4 | 18 | 5 |
466 | 420D | 3 | 380/280 | 7±0.2 | 8820 | 4 | 18 | 5 |
699 | 630D | 3 | 320/220 | 7±0.2 | 13230 | 4 | 19 | 5 |
Embroidery Polyester Thread Size Chart
Polyester embroidery thread is made from synthetic polymer fibers, derived from crude oil. It is known for its strength, durability, and resistance to chemicals and UV light. Polyester’s durability, versatility, and resistance to fading makes it ideal for items that undergo heavy use or frequent washing. It also comes in many vibrant colors and maintains its sheen over time. Polyester thread is highly resistant to UV rays and weather conditions, making it an excellent choice for outdoor applications. It won’t fade or deteriorate when exposed to sunlight, moisture, or harsh elements.
Items | Thread Quality and Indicators | |||
AA Class | A Class | B Class | ||
Embroidery speed for strands (monofilament 600 RPM) |
RPM (Revolutions Per Minute) | ≤1200 | ≤1000 | ≤800 |
Average Breaking Strength(cN) | 120D/2 | ≥1180 | ≥1180 | ≥930 |
150D/2 | / | / | ≥1180 | |
300D/1 | / | / | ≥1180 | |
300D/2 | / | / | ≥2361 | |
600D/1 | / | / | ≥2361 |
Thread Quality and Durability Factors
Thread quality and durability is affected by several factors, the type of material used, the thread construction and the manufacturing process. High quality threads are made from durable materials like polyester or nylon which are known for their strength and durability.
The construction of the thread also matters. Threads can be spun, textured or bonded, each has its own benefits. Bonded threads are treated to resist fraying and breaking so good for heavy duty sewing. The manufacturing process is also important; threads made with attention to detail and strict quality control will be more durable and long lasting.
When choosing a thread consider these factors to ensure you choose a high quality one that will withstand the stress of sewing and last long.
Choosing the Right Thread
Choosing the right thread for your sewing project can be overwhelming with so many options. But by considering the type of fabric, the stitch appearance and the use of the finished product you can make a informed decision.
For heavy duty fabrics like canvas or upholstery polyester thread is a good choice because of its strength and durability. Polyester threads are also shrinkage and fade resistant so your projects will stay vibrant and intact. For delicate fabrics like silk or cotton nylon thread is better because it gives a smooth finish without damaging the material.
By matching the thread to your fabric and project you can get professional looking results and extend the life of your creations.
Thread Tension and Needle Size Optimization
To get optimal sewing results you need to pay attention to thread tension and needle size. When changing thread weights you need to adjust the thread tension to get smooth and even stitching. Incorrect tension will cause thread breakage or uneven stitches and ruin your work.
Similarly using the right needle size is important. The needle size should match the thread weight and the fabric being used. A needle that’s too small will break the thread and a needle that’s too big will damage the fabric. By optimizing both thread tension and needle size you can get professional looking results and extend the life of your threads.
Thread Storage and Handling Tips
Thread storage and handling is important to maintain thread quality and prevent damage. Store your threads in a cool dry place away from direct sunlight and moisture as these will weaken the thread over time. Using a thread spool organizer will keep your threads neat and tangle free.
When handling threads be gentle to avoid tangling or knotting which will damage and affect thread quality. By following these tips you can keep your threads in good condition and perform optimally so your sewing projects will be more enjoyable and successful.
Conclusion
Polyester threads are versatile and important tools in sewing and embroidery. Knowing each type and choosing the right thread size will take your skill to the next level. Whether you’re a pro or a newbie this guide will be your foundation to use polyester threads in your creative journey.
Go deeper into your threadcraft journey by contacting your local supplier or check out more resources online. Join a sewing community to learn more and get inspired.