Overlock Needles

19 September 2024

In the world of sewing, the right tools can make or break your project. One crucial tool often overlooked is the serger overlock needle. These specialized needles are essential for creating strong, professional seams on garments and other items. This blog post will guide you through everything you need to know about overlock machine needles, helping you choose the best ones for your projects and get the most out of your sewing machine.

Understanding Overlock Needles

Overlock needles, also known as serger needles, are designed specifically for overlock sewing machines. These machines use multiple threads to stitch, cut, and finish seams simultaneously, resulting in a clean and durable edge. The unique design of overlock needles allows them to handle the high speed and multiple thread interaction without breaking or skipping stitches.

What Makes Overlock Needles Different?

Unlike regular sewing machine needles, overlock needles have a groove along the shaft that helps guide the thread smoothly through the fabric. This groove minimizes friction and reduces the risk of thread breakage. Additionally, overlock needles have a slightly rounded tip that prevents fabric damage while ensuring precise stitching.

Are Overlock Machines Using the Same Needle as Regular Sewing Machines?

Most modern overlock machines use the same needles as home sewing machines, but there are exceptions. For instance, the Juki MO-2000 and Janome 990 use regular needles, while older Singer sergers require specialized serger needles. Additionally, most modern Singer sergers, if not all, need overlock needles. Combination serger/cover stitch machines also use special overlock needles.

The solution is straight forward: READ THE MANUAL. Your machine might require special needles, or it might not.

There are two needle systems for modern home sewing machines: regular and overlock. Each system offers different sizes and types, such as ballpoint, sharp, and those designed for thick or thin fabrics.

Are Overlock Needles Different?

Special overlock sewing needles, are slightly different. Overlock needles have a second groove on the back side (the same side as the flat side of the shank).

Also, some overlock needles (not all) have a shorter shaft than the regular needles, I am not sure if this is important or not.

How Many Needles Does an Overlock Machine Have?

Home sergers, also known as overlock machines, typically come with one or two needles. The two-needle version is the most popular, and I suggest opting for this model if you're considering purchasing a serger.

Common Overlock Needle Types

Several types of overlock needles are available, each designed for specific fabrics and sewing techniques. The most common types include EL x 705 needles, which are suitable for most overlock machines. Another popular type is the Schmetz overlock serger needles, known for their durability and performance.

Choosing the Right Overlock Needle Size

Selecting the correct needle size is crucial for optimal stitch quality. Overlock needle sizes range from 60/8 to 100/16, with smaller sizes ideal for lightweight fabrics and larger sizes suitable for heavier materials.

Matching Needle Size to Fabric

When working with delicate fabrics like silk or chiffon, use smaller needle sizes such as 60/8 or 70/10. For medium-weight fabrics like cotton or linen, opt for needle sizes 80/12 or 90/14. Heavier fabrics like denim or canvas require larger needle sizes, such as 100/16.

Needle Sizes for Different Threads

The type of thread you use also impacts the choice of needle size. Finer threads work best with smaller needles, while thicker threads require larger needles. Always test your needle and thread combination on a scrap piece of fabric before starting your project to ensure the best results.

Installing Overlock Needles Correctly

Proper installation of overlock needles is essential for smooth operation and high-quality stitches. Before installing a new needle, make sure your sewing machine is turned off and unplugged.

Step-by-Step Installation Guide

Remove the Old Needle: Loosen the needle clamp screw and pull the old needle out, making sure to dispose of it safely.
Insert the New Needle: Position the new needle with the flat side facing the back of the machine. Push it up into the needle clamp as far as it will go.
Tighten the Needle Clamp: Secure the needle in place by tightening the needle clamp screw. Ensure the needle is firmly seated and not crooked.

Checking Needle Alignment

After installing the needle, check its alignment to ensure it is straight and properly positioned. Misaligned needles can cause skipped stitches and fabric damage. Adjust the needle if necessary, and always consult your machine's manual for specific instructions.

Maintaining Your Overlock Needles

Regular maintenance of your overlock needles is essential for extending their lifespan and ensuring consistent stitch quality. Dull or damaged needles can cause skipped stitches, thread breakage, and fabric snags.

Signs of Needle Wear

Common signs your overlock needle needs replacing include:

Skipped stitches
Unusual noise during sewing
Visible burrs or bends on the needle
Fabric pulls or snags

How Often to Change Needles

The frequency of needle replacement depends on the type of fabric and thread, as well as the intensity of your sewing projects. As a general rule, change your needle after every 8-10 hours of sewing or when you notice any signs of wear.

Troubleshooting Common Overlock Needle Issues

Even with the right needle and proper installation, you may encounter issues while using your overlock machine. Understanding common problems and their solutions can help you troubleshoot effectively.

Skipped Stitches

A dull or bent needle often causes skipped stitches. Replace the needle and ensure it is properly installed. Additionally, check the thread tension and make sure the machine is threaded correctly.

Thread Breakage

Thread breakage can result from using the wrong needle size or type for your fabric and thread. Verify you are using the appropriate needle, and adjust the thread tension if necessary. Ensure the thread is of good quality and not too old.

Fabric Damage

If your fabric is getting damaged during sewing, it could be due to a needle too large for the fabric or a needle with a sharp point. Switch to a smaller needle size or one with a rounded tip to prevent fabric pulls and snags.

Expert Tips for Using Overlock Needles

To get the most out of your overlock machine and needles, follow these expert tips for improved performance and stitch quality.

Use High-Quality Needles: Invest in high-quality overlock needles from reputable brands like Schmetz. These needles are made from durable materials and designed to withstand the rigors of overlock sewing.
Test on Scrap Fabric: Before starting your project, test your needle, thread, and fabric combination on a scrap piece of fabric. This will help you identify any issues and make necessary adjustments before sewing on your final piece.
Keep Needles Organized: Store your needles in a dedicated needle case to keep them organized and protected. Label the case with the needle sizes and types for easy reference.

Brands of Serger/Overlock Needles

Singer: type 2022 (equivalent with ELX705, SY2922), type 2054 (equivalent with SY2054, 16×75)
Organ: ELX705, BLX1, SLX75, SY2054, 16X75
Schmetz: ELX705, BLX1

Conclusion

Mastering the use of overlock needles is essential for achieving professional-quality seams and finishes in your sewing projects. By understanding the different types of needles, choosing the right size, and maintaining them properly, you can enhance your sewing experience and produce stunning results.

For more tips and insights on sewing and needle selection, stay tuned to our blog. Happy sewing!