Jeans Needle Sizes for Hemming

17 October 2024

Hemming jeans can be a daunting task, especially if you're unsure about the right needle to use. This guide will help demystify the process and ensure you get a professional finish every time. Whether you're a sewing novice or experienced tailor, understanding the proper tools and techniques is crucial for working with denim. Let's look at the best practices for hemming jeans, beginning with the needle size you should use.

Understanding Jeans Fabric Features

Denim, the fabric used for most jeans, is known for its durability and unique texture. It's a heavy, tightly woven fabric often made from cotton, which gives it a sturdy yet slightly flexible feel. This makes denim perfect for everyday wear but tricky to sew. Key features of denim include its weight, thickness, and tendency to fray. When hemming jeans, these characteristics require special consideration to ensure a clean, long-lasting hem.

Use the Right Needle Types, Sizes, and Denim Needles

One of the most critical factors in hemming jeans on a home sewing machine is selecting the correct needle size. For denim, you’ll want to use a needle specifically designed for heavy fabrics. Here are some guidelines:

Jeans Needle Size: Most experts recommend using a size 90/14 or 100/16 needle for hemming jeans. These sizes are robust enough to handle the thickness of denim without breaking.
Sewing Needle Size for Denim: The term “denim needle” usually refers to a size 100/16 needle. It’s thicker and has a sharper point to penetrate dense fabric effortlessly. A modified medium ball point needle is specifically designed for sewing denim and similar fabrics, providing better performance.
What Size Needle for Denim: Generally, a size 90/14 needle is suitable for lighter-weight denim, while a size 100/16 is better for heavier, more rigid denim.
What Size Needle for Jeans: Again, a size 90/14 or 100/16 needle is ideal, depending on the weight of the denim. Always test on a scrap piece of fabric first to ensure your needle is appropriate.

Using the correct needle size helps prevent skipped stitches and broken needles, ensuring a smoother sewing experience and a polished final product. Universal needles can also be used for lighter-weight denim, offering versatility for various fabric types.

Use the Right Thread

The thread you choose is just as important as the needle. For denim, opt for a heavy-duty thread to match the fabric's strength. Polyester or cotton-wrapped polyester threads are excellent choices because they offer durability and a bit of elasticity. Avoid using regular all-purpose threads, as they may not withstand the wear and tear denim undergoes.

Use a Bumper or a Leveling Foot (J Foot)

Denim's thickness can cause uneven stitching, especially when sewing over seams. A bumper or leveling foot, also known as a J foot, can help maintain even pressure and prevent your needle from breaking. This tool lifts the presser foot, allowing it to glide smoothly over bulky areas, resulting in consistent, professional-looking stitches.

Go Slow

When sewing denim, patience is key. Slow down your sewing machine to ensure each stitch is placed accurately. Rushing through the process can lead to skipped stitches, broken needles, and uneven hems. Taking your time also allows you to adjust for any inconsistencies and ensures a higher-quality finish.

Use a Mallet

A tailor's mallet is a handy tool for flattening thick seams before sewing. By gently tapping down bulky areas, you make them easier to sew through and reduce the risk of needle breakage. This step is particularly useful when hemming jeans, as the folded fabric can become quite thick.

Preparing Your Sewing Machine

Before you start hemming, ensure your sewing machine is set up correctly for denim.

Adjusting Tension: Denim requires higher tension settings. Test on a scrap piece of fabric to find the ideal tension to prevent puckering or loose stitches. When switching from denim to knit fabrics, you may need to adjust the tension settings accordingly.
Setting Stitch Length: A longer stitch length works better for denim. Aim for a length of 3 to 4 mm to ensure strong and even stitches.
Using the Right Presser Foot: A walking foot or denim foot can help feed the thick fabric evenly through the machine. This minimizes skipped stitches and uneven seams.

Hemming Techniques for Jeans

There are different techniques to hem jeans, and choosing the right one can affect the final outcome.

Double-Fold Hem: This is the most common method. Fold the hem twice and stitch it down. It provides a clean finish and extra durability.
Original Hem: If you want to keep the original hem, cut off the excess fabric and reattach the original hem. This technique preserves the factory look of the jeans.
Blind Hem: For a less visible hem, use a blind hem stitch. This method is less common for denim but can be useful for certain styles.

Troubleshooting Common Issues and Needle Breakage

Even with the right needle, problems can still arise. Here’s how to address them.

Skipped Stitches: If you’re experiencing skipped stitches, try adjusting the tension or changing to a new needle. Using the right needle is crucial for stretch fabrics like silk jersey to avoid skipped stitches. Also, ensure you’re using the right thread.
Preventing Needle Breakage: Frequent needle breakage often indicates the need for a stronger needle or a different type of needle. Check that your needle is properly installed and not bent.
Uneven Hem: An uneven hem can result from incorrect tension or stitch length. Recheck your settings and ensure you’re feeding the fabric evenly through the machine.

Maintaining Your Sewing Machine

Regular maintenance is essential for sewing thick fabrics.

Cleaning the Machine: Lint and fabric dust can clog your machine. Clean it regularly to ensure smooth operation.
Oiling the Machine； Proper lubrication keeps the moving parts working efficiently. Follow your machine's manual for oiling instructions.
Replacing Parts: Needles and other components wear out over time. Replace them as needed to maintain optimal performance.

Expert Tips for Hemming Jeans

Here are some advanced tips to take your hemming skills to the next level.

Using a Hammer: Gently tapping the thick seams with a hammer can flatten them, making it easier to sew through multiple layers.
Sewing in Sections: Break down the hemming process into sections. This approach helps manage the bulk and ensures even stitching.
Avoiding Stretch: Denim can stretch during sewing. Use pins or clips to hold the fabric in place and avoid stretching.

Recommended Tools and Supplies

Having the right tools can make hemming jeans much easier.

Quality Sewing Machine Needles: Invest in high-quality sewing machine needles designed for denim. Cheap needles can break easily and cause frustration. Universal needles are also a versatile option, suitable for various fabrics including woven, synthetic, and some knits, making them a valuable addition to your sewing kit.
Heavy-Duty Thread: Opt for heavy-duty or topstitching thread for durability.
Appropriate Presser Feet: Using the correct presser foot can make a significant difference. A walking foot or denim foot is highly recommended.

Conclusion

Hemming jeans doesn't have to be a daunting task. With the right needle size, thread, and techniques, you can achieve a professional finish that lasts. Remember, the key to success lies in preparation and using the correct tools for the job. By following this guide, you'll be well on your way to master the art of hemming jeans. For more detailed tips and personalized advice, consider booking a session with one of our sewing experts. Happy hemming!